Bucket List

Bucket List and Commentary

by John Hallowell

       Compiling a "bucket list" of must-see-or-do attractions for the Texas Hill Country is a tricky assignment, since there are so many great things to see and do. Some of the Hill Country's attractions are more famous than others, and you've probably heard of quite a few of the attractions on my list. There are usually good reasons for their fame, and I don't want you to miss places like Fredericksburg, Enchanted Rock, Luckenbach, Garner State Park or Schlitterbahn; I'm just assuming that you already know about them. Also, while Austin and San Antonio are at the edge of our Hill Country map, they both have too many "big city" attractions to list here. I do think everyone should visit the state capitol, the Bob Bullock history museum and Mount Bonnell in Austin. I also would hate to think that anyone hadn't visited the missions (especially the Alamo), the Riverwalk, the Hemisfair Tower, La Villita, the Institute of Texan Cultures and Sea World in San Antonio; those are all great places to visit.

       It doesn't seem fair to mention places that are not open to the public, but if you ever have a chance to visit Falkenstein Castle in Burnet County (available for weddings and some other special occasions), Willie Nelson's little western town of Luck, Texas, the amazing 700 Springs Ranch (just south of Junction), or the beautiful Inks Ranch in southern Llano County (available for hunting, filming and occasional Jeep Jamborees), you should jump at it.

       My list will be mainly less-famous places that I know from personal experience. You've probably heard of most and been to some. You'll also probably have your own special places that I have neglected to mention (if so, PLEASE tell us about them). But here, in no particular order, are my favorite places and events around the Hill Country. You can learn more about most of them simply by Googling their names.

       I'm going to start with Enchanted Springs Ranch, just west of Boerne; I don't think it's as famous as it should be, but several movies have been filmed in its "old west" village, and there always seems to be something going on there (check the schedule on their website). While you're in the Boerne area, be sure to check out the Cibolo Nature Center (and if you're closer to Kerrville, be sure to visit the Riverside Nature Center). Next on my list would be the Wimberley Zip Line, which combines the thrill of (almost) flying with a spectacular view of the beautiful valley (and there's another great zip line -- Cypress Valley Canopy Tours, in Spicewood).

       For sheer natural beauty, I can't think of a better place to visit than the Westcave Preserve, in southwestern Travis County, although some might prefer Hamilton Pool or Krause Springs (to be mentioned again on my list of "best swimming holes").  Westcave also has a remarkable interpretive center to enhance its appeal. Lost Maples State Natural Area is famous for its fall foliage, but not everyone realizes that it has some of the best hiking trails and most scenic year-round views anywhere in the Hill Country. If you are interested in birding, I'd recommend the Balcones Canyonlands Wildlife Preserve near Austin (and the adjoining Peaceful Springs Nature Preserve), the South Llano River State Park in Kimble County or the Hill Country Adventures Nature Center near Garner State Park. Another fantastic place that doesn't seem to be very well-known is the Colorado Bend State Park in eastern San Saba County. If you don't feel like doing all that hiking, you might prefer the comfort of the Vanishing Texas River Cruise, from northern Lake Buchanan up the Colorado River just south of the bend. That cruise gives you a double adventure: a great boat ride and a unique look at one of the most unspoiled parts of the Texas Hill Country. Also, if you're here during the winter, be sure to visit the famous eagles' nest just off Highway 29 in eastern Llano County. During the summer, you can see millions of bats at the James River or Frio Bat Caves.

       History is one of the Hill Country's great attractions, and there are a number of wonderful sites and museums. I think I'd start with the Spanish Presidio in Menard, then (to stay in historical order) go to the Sophienburg in New Braunfels, Fort McKavett, the Fort Croghan museum in Burnet, the Pioneer Museum in Fredericksburg, then the Sauer-Beckmann living history farmstead at the LBJ Ranch in Stonewall. I hear that they're building a new Texas Ranger museum in Fredericksburg, and I expect to add that to my list soon. I think everyone should check out the Treue der Union monument in Comfort and the Johnnie Armstead African American History Museum in San Marcos (the Hill Country has had its rough patches); for more recent history, LBJ's boyhood home and visitors center in
Johnson City, the railroad museum in the old depot at New Braunfels, the Museum of the Pacific War in Fredericksburg and the Commemorative Air Force museums at Burnet and San Marcos are all Hill Country treasures, as is the amazing collection of 1929-1959 cars at Dick's Classic Garage in San Marcos (and don't miss the remarkable Lone Star Motorcycle Museum just north of Utopia!). In addition to these listed museums, almost every town has a museum of its own, with local history richly illustrated and documented. I hear that the city of Junction is in the process of a major upgrade, with treasures from the life of its most famous citizen, former governor Coke Stephenson.

       The historic buildings are a big attraction in every town, as well. Nearly all Hill Country towns were built between 1850 and 1910, and there's hardly a downtown without a collection of century-old structures. Many of the towns are county seats, and the courthouse square is a consistent feature. Old jails add their dubious charm to many small Hill Country towns. I'd take a map and make sure I at least drove through every town on it (and make Castroville one of the first stops!)

       There are hundreds of great places to eat or spend a night, and there's no way I could ever list them all. I'm going to mention just a few that have impressed me. Most people think of barbecue as the national food of Texas, and the Hill Country (especially Llano) has no shortage of good BBQ joints. I would single out Cooper's in Llano (as long as you don't expect white tablecloths and linen napkins) and Driftwood's Salt Lick, as much for the experience as for the excellent BBQ. Other remarkable dining experiences can be had at Mac and Ernie's (in Tarpley), the Welfare Cafe (near Boerne), the Laurel Tree  in Utopia (but check their hours and make reservations) and the Gristmill in Gruene. Also, if you're anywhere near Menard, you owe it to yourself to stop at the Side Oats Cafe, where you'll find a uniquely healthy and delicious meal at a very reasonable price.

       To stay overnight near Fredericksburg, I would recommend the luxuriously-appointed log cabins of Tin Star Ranch, the charming Swiss village of Baron's Creekside or the amazing adobe-style village at Trois Estate. Any of those three is worth visiting just to "window shop." Other wonderful Hill Country lodgings are: The Verandas Guest House, in Burnet; Kuebler-Waldrip Haus, near New Braunfels; Crystal River Inn, in the historic district of San Marcos; the Fortress (at Utopia River Retreat) in Utopia; the historic Dabbs Hotel in Llano; Koch Hotel in D'Hanis; Soap's Place in San Saba and any of several charming B&B's in Mason (one of my favorite towns).

       I understand that those recommendations are just starting to scratch the surface. Please tell me about the others who deserve to be on this list!

       For activities, the Hill Country has some great swimming holes and rivers for tubing or kayaking. For swimming, I especially recommend Krause Springs (near Spicewood), Devil's Waterhole (at Inks Lake State Park), Blue Hole (in Wimberley), and one of several crossings of the Guadalupe River on Highway  39, west of Kerrville. For tubing, the Frio River (at Concan) and the Guadalupe (near New Braunfels) are probably the best; for kayaking, I'd recommend the Llano River (all the way from Junction to Kingsland) or the Nueces (near Camp Wood). There are many good places to hike, but my favorites are Colorado Bend, Enchanted Rock and Lost Maples. I like driving my Honda Accord on the hilly, winding roads around Leakey; I can't imagine how much more fun it would be on a motorcycle. Camping (judging by their popularity) must be best at Garner or Inks Lake State Parks.

       If you're feeling adventurous, you should get a ride in a glider (Fault Line Flyers, in Briggs) or a hot air balloon (Austin Aeronauts, and others). You can even learn hang-gliding and paragliding (www.flytexas.com) at Packsaddle Mountain in Kingsland, or skydiving (www.skydivesanmarcos.com) in San Marcos!

       I'm not a golfer, a hunter or a fisherman, but I've seen some beautiful courses at Tapatio Springs, Concan, Kerrville and Horseshoe Bay. Llano County is reputed to be the best hunting area in Texas, and Lake Buchanan is probably the best place to fish (or go sailing, water-skiing, etc.). Lake LBJ is a beautiful constant-level lake, and probably the best place for lake-front living.

       Live music is becoming another of the Hill Country's main attractions. I'd recommend Gruene Hall, Luckenbach, Fuel Coffee House in Llano, the House Pasture Restaurant in Concan, the Rockbox in Fredericksburg, the Cheatham Street Warehouse in San Marcos, the Kerrville Folk Festival, the Country Opry (in Mason and Llano) or all of the above.

       Art is another attraction, and there are some amazing centers for the arts all around the Hill Country. Kerrville has a great Museum of Western Art, as well as the wonderful  Kerrville Arts and Cultural Center (next to the Hill Country Museum in Charles Schreiner's mansion) in Kerrville's often-overlooked historic district. Boerne has the Majestic Arts Foundation, Blanco has the Uptown Blanco Ingram has a great arts center, etc. etc.

       And there's a whole lot more, some of which I have not yet discovered. I'm going to add more, but in the meantime, please tell me YOUR favorite places. And have a great time exploring the Texas Hill Country!